Tuesday, 29 November 2011

Interview

The following is and interview I had with on of the Fashion Stylists at the magazine:


How long have you been working for the magazine?
Since it launched in 2007. I worked for free (work experience) for a whole two years and then have been here ever since.
What would you say to a student hoping to get into magazine work?
Get as much work experience as you can in magazines and head for the one magazine you ideally want to work for and fight for it. I mean be determined, if thats really the place you want to work exhaust all areas as with hard work you will get it!
What do you enjoy most about your job?
I love the photo shoots and doing what I love which is styling. I love seeing outfits come alive, and finding the best high street picks to show other girls in a really creative, fun and attractive way which helps them find their own style and know where to find key season pieces from the best stores.
Does the magazine have a policy on models and using girls of certain sizes?
We don’t have a set policy, but we all know what we look for and we wouldn’t go for a model who looked ill or unhealthy. We try to use models of different sizes. We will use size 8 models but also use curvier size’s like 12’s too. All girls and our readers are different sizes and we try to embrace that and cater to everybody. We understand although a girl is size 8 and slim, we think that is her natural shape like a lot of other girls, however the size 12 is just as beautiful and attractive, and other clothes look good and suit her better.  So it’s about using a mix, in a healthy way and not using someone who looks like they are not eating.
But how do you know when someone is ill? Where is the line? Two girls could be the same weigh yet one be Anorexic yet the other naturally like that?
That is true. We can’t say for sure, but we have to judge that and think, does that look too skinny. Our readers are important to us, and we’ve got the responsibility to promote a healthy image along with our photo shoots. We just try and bring in a mix of slim, and curvy models, but aware and don’t use models who look visually ill.
Do you think using size 0 on the catwalk within high fashion is irresponsible to young girls? Do you think they are affected and look up to them because of their size?
Yes, to be honest I do. I have looked at them in the past and been upset myself so I am just the same as those girls so I know how they feel. I look at all the glamorous beautiful women who fit into all the beautiful clothes and I’ve thought why aren’t I thin like that?! But I’ve got to the point were I’ve accepted who I am. I’m naturally curvy and some things would suit and flatter my figure that wouldn’t on size 0 models. And that’s what we’re trying to embrace in the magazine that we can all be fashionable and look good. We are plastered with size 0 models everywhere we go so we forget that curvy and normal women look good in fashionable clothes too!
We further discussed what the high fashion world would be like if they used curvier models, discussing different fittings, and the way it is in fact a lot easier for designers to make one size of everything, in all areas that will fit the size 0 models than getting the right measurements for curvy models. Also if they used curvy models maybe naturally size 0 women will think they’re creating a look that high fashion is telling them they should be. It’s a debate I am looking forward to getting further and deeper in, I have a lot of points to be made and the fashion stylist has helped me with her views as well as the magazines.

Friday, 25 November 2011

Wider Debates

With the knowledge learnt at the start of placement, brings wider debates as I further learn more. I started to think about the future of these companies. I think where my buying placement was, the very popular high street store chain has a very stable future. I have seen how tirelessly they work behind the scenes, with very talented people whom most fit the brands target market themselves. They know what the customer wants, and I believe if they carry on delivering to that customer, their brand will stay profitable and continue to grow. They are growing internationally and deliver to over 30 countries world wide. The way I believe they will grow most will be through internet. They now have a Twitter page, Tumblr and f
Facebook and of course deliver to many places abroad. I think they will continue to grow with technology and with their customer.
I think the magazine also has a sustainable future. There is a gap in the market for them as it is a high street fashion weekly magazine, and the other fashion magazines around are either high fashion, monthly, or half known for being gossip magazines, not fully fashion. I think in the future they will also become online magazines. As technology develops and becomes more popular than ever, there will be a demand for it to be read online. However I think the standard issue will still be printed so the customer has the choice where to read it. As a glossy magazine you can fit in your handbag, take on the train or in the car etc. can be a source of relaxation and leisure for customers.
I have also been observing how the different placements work with models. As I am doing my dissertation on size zero on the catwalk and in high fashion, and how it can affect young girls and its relation to Anorexia. I will be interviewing a fashion stylist regarding the magazines views and policies on sizing and model castings that will help with my dissertation and views.

Monday, 21 November 2011

Week 3

The start of week three of placement at the magazine bought more responsibility, as two of the stylists were away abroad arranging photo shoots I was asked to do more. I got the opportunity to research trends in accessories, so I searched for catwalk spring/summer pieces, street style trends and wrote down things I remember seeing about and felt would be a big trend soon. I really liked researching, and having the responsibility and the pressure to get it right. It’s definitely something I enjoy, and noticed this with the buying, predicting trends and finding the trends from the catwalk or street or anywhere else that the customer wants trickled down into the high street. I feel like i’ve recognised although I like working and the excitement of the magazine and photo shoots, I seem to enjoy more behind the scenes, the research and the creation of clothes. I have a strong passion and feel it’s where my talent lies, spotting the trends that are going to sell well, and sell out. Which was also proved and reassured in buying meetings where I would predict what would sell out and it usually would. This has helped me compare placements, and realise that my interest and passion perhaps lies more in Buying. Without doing this placement however I may not have realised this so much as I could not compare that with this other route I was very much still interested. However I feel i have not seen as much of the magazine as I would hope or like too so the next week or two will hopefully help my decision and reflections futher

Tuesday, 15 November 2011

Photo Shoot Day!

The photo shoot went really well and was successful. They had ordered a room at a top London hotel for the location which was pure luxury to say the least. Even the tissue boxes were gold plaited so it was obvious this was the scene of a glamourous shoot-to-be! The theme was evening/party wear as its nearly christmas and the readers will be looking out for good christmas party outfits and sparkling clothes. There was around 8 outfits and shooting started at 9am and finished around 5pm. There was one photographer and his assistant, a make up artist, hair stylist, model and fashion stylist from the magazine. I helped organise, style and steam the clothes and get the model dressed. Each outfit had to have clothes from the same shop/brand as it was for the best clothes on the high street right now. Its the way the magazine runs for these particular shoots, in other ones they can mix the clothes up but this one had to be the same. Before we went on the photo shoot  this was a bit of a problem as one or two companies would send their clothes last minute and not the ones the stylist wanted so putting the outfits together, that would look good could be hard! So I learnt how important it was to have good relationships with PR companies and assistants and make it clear what you want and that you both understand each other, and in good time not last minute as this could all ruin the whole photo shoot.
They had to be very precise with choice of backgrounds, against different colour clothes so when it came out in print it wouldn’t look odd. After or sometimes during each outfit shoot the photographer would be uploading the images so they could look at the flat image and see if there was anything they needed to change, this was really important as there would be things you wouldn’t notice with your own eyes but on a flat screen or image it’s seen clearly.
I felt like it was very similar to they way I had organised photo shoots for my university project. I just had to be completely organised and know what I wanted. She had photos of a famous photo shoot, the stylist wanted the model to  stand like or pose like and the photographer to photograph like which is what I needed to do with my photo shoot for my project. I learnt this was important then when this caused a bit of a language barrier between me and the photographer (it was better for me to have photographs or visual ideas then just explaining or experimenting on a time schedule) and  its good to see how they do the same and plan the same in the industry.

Monday, 14 November 2011

Photo Shoot Time!

So I have been told i’m going on the next photo shoot! I’m excited to do something different and get involved with helping prepare the glamourous shots they create that are seen in the magazine weekly! There is a number of shoots that go on per week usually, catwalk & plus sized, celebrity and model on location, some are here and there due to cancellations (by celebrities), if they are working behind schedule or working before for an upcoming issue. 2 of the stylists have gone to brazil for some photo shoots for the magazine that come out whilst they are out there and some for the weeks ahead they are shooting whilst they are there. We had to write down the credits for them (description of the clothes, where they are from and how much they are) so when they send us the photos we can quickly match and type the credits ready to put in the magazine.
So i had to do that also for the clothes and accessories that are being taken to my photo shoot. There are always spares incase they don’t look right on the model or something disastrous happens! This shoot has given me the opportunity to work closer with the stylist and work out how they are arranging it and themes and ideas..etc I have realised that this placement must be what I make of it, we are not asked to do much that involves something new or learning new as we are tidying or returning clothes most of the day, everyday so I will grab every opportunity like the photo shoot to learn as much as I can, obviously work hard and then ask questions I still need to know

Saturday, 12 November 2011

End of week number 1

It’s the end of week number 1 at the magazine and we have been doing returns most of the week. Some of the other girls on placement have been on photo shoots but we are taking it in turns so I should get to go on one next week! It’s become clear that rarely will anyone talk to us about whats going on or introduce themselves, even if they ask you to do something for them. Sometimes it can feel frustrating or upsetting the way you may be treated, and continuous tidying and returning literally hundreds of clothes, but I understand the importance of work experience and I want to help out however I can. I know they are busy and I understand this is the way to achieve a job in the industry, to work hard and show you are willing to. I do believe it will pay off. Making the tea is the best way I have learnt to learn peoples names and have a quick few words even if it is ‘yes' or ‘no' answers. Making my face familiar and hopefully them remembering my willingness is important so if they need something they know they can rely on me and that I will work hard. It could even help them remember if I ever applied for a job there! You never know. Making tea may be a small simple thing but it can make a huge difference!

Wednesday, 9 November 2011

Work Placement Number 2!

I started my second placement this week working at a weekly fashion magazine. One of the fashion stylists gave us our introduction, health and safety sheets etc and then showed us where the fashion cupboards were as well as the photocopier/s. She went through the process of sending returns (clothes and accessories sent to the magazine for possible shoots) with us, which i was already familiar with due to my work experience at Reveal the previous year and we got started. There was 5 other work placement girls working alongside me, which I was relieved about as the cupboard was absolutely full of clothes. We couldn’t all fit in there and it was a hazard as we tripped multiple times over clothes or clothing ‘avalanches’ as we called them. We had to clear space out of the cupboard to be able to fit in and start sending stuff back. We did this constantly for the first few days and it became evidently clear that this was our biggest role. We weren’t further introduced to any other of the magazines employees and felt like we didn’t really know what was going on outside of our cupboard! Whereas before during my previous work placements I have worked closely, literally, with employees, we were in our own space away from their open office and there seemed to be not much opportunity to ask questions far away from them whilst they were busy. I was hoping it would get better, and we’d be given more to do and opportunity to talk and ask more about their job role and the magazine.

Saturday, 5 November 2011

Questions

I had a few questions I asked the buyers before I left such as wanting to know the relationship between them and the designers. The buyers seemed to have a huge say on what colours, material and fit of the garment. In fittings if they decided they didn’t like it they could go from having it as a tunic to making it a crop top so I thought surely a designer would be annoyed with that if the did design it?! They told me however they have a lot of creativity. The designer draws a rough sketch and then it goes to them.. or sometimes they can contact suppliers and say based on another top they created or similar they want it in a different colour or print etc.. so the designer seems they are not always needed. This really interested me as I had wandered that before even starting placement. However they said that not all companies are like this, they have a lot of creativity but different brands buyers may not, every where would be different.
I got the opportunity to go on a store trip with the merchandisers and they met with the store manager on the store floor. They talked about what had sold well and what hadn’t and the merchandisers had to make sure everything was being marketed and displayed to the best of their ability. All motif tops needed to face outwards, as on a side rail the main detail wouldn’t be seen.
They talked about some of the casual wear and how for a couple of weeks they hadn’t sold well but when they changed the display and put the in a clever colour co-ordinated pattern the sales soared. They also were trying different ways of selling clothes that hadn’t sold well, by displaying it differently and it had increased sales and profits majorly. This was really interesting as I had never grasped how important these merchandising and displays just on the shop floor are. It’s all a creative art and its very well thought about and clever!

Wednesday, 2 November 2011

Week Two on Buying Placement

So far this week has been again really busy as one of the buyers have been off and with an already busy schedule everyones become even busier. Not just that, but this week has been scheduled to have a review, which is usually every 6 weeks but they have bought it forward and was only 4 weeks since their last one. I had a lot of steaming and hanging clothes to do to help the meeting run smoothly and also had to compile another comp shop.
The meeting lasted around 3 hours, which shows how big it was and how much there was to say. It was a really important review with the senior buyers and merchandisers and buying director. The head merchandiser started by going through the sales, comparing them to last year, expectations for next year and targets. I got very lost during that start and I was warned before that that part would probably ‘go straight over my head’. If you’re not aware of  the terms used or abbreviations on the merchandising sheet report its quite hard to understand and there was a lot of abbreviations and numbers!
The buyers then went through the clothing a few already in, but mostly that of what was still to come into stores. They presented it to the head buyers & director where they gave their views, mostly agreeing with the outfits but if not it would be about making one or two garments a bit cheaper or changing the colour a little, the date they were coming in or to order even  more in or if they wanted it made in a different style of top.
It was really interesting to hear them talking. It was a little surreal as all the merchandisers and BA’s and BAA’s sat watching on as the head buyers and merchandisers sat around a table watching the buyers show clothes and talk about sales. I enjoyed learning how they review their clothes and how well you need to be able to present and communicate so people understand fully what your expectations and requirements are as things would get confused and not be on the same wave length without that.